|
Introduction Lucca
is a city in Tuscany, situated on the river Serchio in a fertile plain
near (but not on) the Ligurian Sea. It is the capital city of the Province
of Lucca. Lucca is located 30 kilometers northeast of the Pisa airport
and 85 kilometers west of Florence in Northern Tuscany. To the north of
Lucca lie the Apuane Alps with their famous marble quarries, spas and mineral
water springs, streams, woods and caves. Lucca is a wonderful little city
with much to admire. One of Italy's finest mediaeval treasures, the centre
is relatively unspoilt and is sprinkled with palazzi, towers and almost
countless splendid churches. The surrounding hills produce some excellent
wines and arguably the finest olive oil anywhere. The architecture in the
old city is a combination of Gothic and Romanesque, with lovely streets
well laid out, and houses often painted in pastels of blue, yellow and
pink.
Arrival
Plane The nearest airports to Lucca are Pisa International Airport
Galileo Galilei and Florence International Airport Amerigo Vespucci. just
outside the airport you will notice a little train station: every twenty
minutes a train leaves in order to connect Pisa Airport to Pisa Central
Station where you will find train coincidences to Lucca Station. Another
way to get to Lucca is to take an interurban bus of the Autolinee Lazzi
leaving just outside the airport. The journey will take approximately one
hour and you can check the schedule visiting the page: Pisa Airport - Lucca
airport by bus. From Florence Airport to Lucca take a city line bus to
the Train Station of Santa Maria Novella, in order to take a train coincidence
to Lucca. There is a bus leaving every 30 minutes just outside the airport
and you can get more information at the following websites: www.ataf.net
or www.sita-on-line.it. The whole journey (bus+train) will take approximately
two hours. The second alternative to get to Lucca is to take an interurban
bus of the Autolinee Lazzi; there is a dedicated bus stop immediately nearby
the airport and you can visualize the schedule of the connections on the
following website: www.lazzi.it. The journey will take approximately one
hour and forty-five minutes.
Train Lucca is on
the Florence-Viareggio train line, with frequent service to Florence. It
takes 70 minutes to an hour and a half to go from Lucca to Florence. Lucca's
train station is two blocks outside the ramparts (enter at Porta San Pietro)
on the south side of town in Piazza Ricasoli.
Car Lucca is reached
with the A11 and A12 autoroutes and is only 20 kilometers from the Pisa
Airport.
Bus Buses run daily
to Florence and Pisa as well, and leave from Piazza Verdi, adjacent to
the tourist office.
Transport It is possible
to park in the centre of town, but many areas are closed to non-resident
traffic and you may have a long wait for a parking space. You can park
in one of the free edge of town car parks on Lucca's north side and take
one of the small electric buses into town. You'll find two large car parks
on Via delle Tagliate (near the sports stadium) and Via del Cimitero (near
the cemetery); there is also one further round the ring road towards the
railway station. Bus tickets (for the navetta) may be bought at most bars
or on the bus itself.
If you don't have your own
mean of transportation you can rely on Clap buses (tel. 0583-5411 or 0583-587-897)
or Lazzi buses (tel. 0583-584-877). Both lines are based at Piazzale Verdi.
Clap is dedicated to local transportation (within Lucca province) while
Lazzi destinations are inside and outside the province.
One of the best ways to see
Lucca is to hire a bicycle for a few hours. All the locals use bikes to
get around and there is so much to see that you'll likely find yourselves
tired from walking everywhere. There are a couple of hire shops in Piazza
Santa Maria on the north side of the town, and another can be found tucked
behind the Roman amphitheatre.
A scenic railway line ducks
in and out of tunnels alongside the Serchio River - you ride under an arch
of the Devil's Bridge - and goes out onto the Lunigiana plain to Aulla,
where you can change.
History and Culture The
Lucca area has been inhabited since time immemorial, first by the Ligurians,
then by the Etruscans, who were followed by the Romans. By the middle of
the 2nd Century BC, it was a prosperous Latin town, largely because of
its location near the intersection of three major Roman highways, the Via
Cassia, the Via Aurelia and the Via Clodia. Lucca's geometrical grid pattern
layout dates to this period.
As the Roman empire declined,
the area came under the rule of the Longobards, so-called barbarians, whose
reign lasted til the 11th century, AD. Lucca became a free commune in 1162
enjoying a long period of prosperity as a banking and manufacturing center.
The many splendid churches, cathedrals, towers and villas, extant even
today, are testament to its economic success. Lucca's original walls and
fortifications were completely renovated and improved during the 15th and
16th centuries as the town fought to retain its independence from Firenze
(Florence). The walls and ramparts that were built during this period are
those that the modern traveler sees encircling the old town.
In 1799 Lucca came under
Napoleonic rule. Napoleon appointed his sister, Elisa as Duchess. She and
her husband were active supporters of the arts, and built many important
buildings during their reign. The Piazza Napoleone is named for the Duchess.
Eventually, after the Congress of Vienna, Lucca was amalgamated into the
Grand Duchy of Tuscany, then of the Kingdom of Italy. In the early 19th
century, when the town was annexed to Parma, the delightful, tree-lined
promenade around the walls of the old town were added by the architect
Lorenzo Nottolini.
On the cultural front,
Lucca has made many contributions, most notably in the field of music.
A singing school was founded in the town in AD 787. Luigi Bocherini, who
revitalized chamber music, made his home in Lucca. So did Giacomo Puccini,
composer of Madame Butterfly, Tosca, Turnadot and La Boheme.
Churches and Museums Lucca
Cathedral - Duomo di San Martino The Cathedral was completely rebuilt between
the twelfth and fifteenth centuries; in 1261 it was joined to the adjoining
bell-tower, hence the unusual asymmetry of the facade and its smaller arch
to the right. Some of the carving dates back to the fifth century and some
work has been attributed to Nicola Pisano. The tomb of Ilaria is the work
of Lucca's famous son, Matteo Civitali, and dates from the fifteenth century.
The Volto Santo (Holy Face) is a wooden effigy that is said to be a true
image of Christ, carved by Nicodemus at the crucifixion. Once a year the
revered effigy is removed to head a procession through the streets of Lucca.
Santa Maria della Rosa
A short distance east of the cathedral is a small low church dedicated
to Santa Maria della Rosa, built against the Roman town walls in 1309 by
the Università dei Mercanti. On the side wall are Gothic arcades
enclosing elegant windows. On the left-hand wall of the interior are large
dressed blocks of stone from the Roman walls.
San Frediano The Church
of San Frediano, dedicated to the sixth century Bishop of Lucca of that
name, was built between 1112 and 1147 on the site of the earlier eighth
century church (some remains of which were brought to light in 1950). Originally
the church had the usual orientation, with the chancel at the east end.
In the 13th century, however, it was heightened and the facade was given
another story; the baptistery and the Cappella della Santa Croce, to the
right and left of the present entrance, were incorporated in the church;
the apse, containing the altar, was built on to the west end so that the
entrance front should not face the town walls which had by then been erected.
The lower part of the facade is plain, vertically articulated by pilasters
and columns.
Church of San Michele
in Foro Almost certainly the most photographed view in Lucca, the facade
of San Michele in Foro is a delight. The upper section gives the impression
of a propped-up film set - the windows look through onto thin air - as
money ran out before that part of the church could be raised to the level
of the facade.Every single column is different; some are elaborately carved,
some twisted and spiralling, others are like striped sweets.
Museo Nazionale Guinigi
Lucca's main museum houses an interesting and varied collection of
works. Inside you'll find paintings, sculptures, furniture and works of
art from Lucca and its Province. There are some pieces from Roman and Etruscan
times and the unusual red-brick villa often hosts special exhibitions.
Via della Quarquonia. Museo del Duomo - Cathedral Museum A relatively new
museum housing interesting relics of the cathedral and of Lucca. There
are examples of some lavish metalwork, most notably the regalia used to
adorn the Volto Santo come procession time. May be found alongside the
cathedral itself.
Historical buildings and
monuments City walls The historical centre of Lucca lies within a unique
wall system. These walls, built of small red bricks specifically created
for their construction, were many years in the making. Unusually for cities
in the region, the walls around the old town were retained intact as the
city expanded and modernized. As the wide walls lost their military importance,
they became a pedestrian promenade ringing the old town although they were
used for a number of years in the 20th century for racing cars. They are
still fully intact today; each of the four principal sides is lined with
a different tree species.
Casa di Puccini This
is the house where Giacomo Puccini was born in 1858. Now a small museum
with portraits, scores, sketches and the Steinway piano at which Lucca's
most famous son composed Turandot. Just off Piazza San Michele, on Via
di Poggio.
Torre Guinigi Instantly
recognisable as 'the tower with the tree on top', this fifteenth century
130 foot high tower may be climbed all the way to the top. The adjoining
Casa Guinigi is but one of many mansions that were built by the silk trading
Guinigi family, once all-powerful rulers of Lucca.
Palazzo Bernardini A
little way east of San Cristóforo in Lucca can be seen the long
three-storyed facade of the Palazzo Bernardini, built by Matteo Civitali
in the early 16th century. It has a beautiful doorway and an elegant courtyard.
Roman amphitheatre The
amphitheatre, where gladiatorial shows and games were traditionally held,
was built in Lucca in the second half of the Ist century A.D.. The remains
of the Roman amphitheatre are preserved, incorporated in buildings bordering
the present day Piazza dell' Anfiteatro, in the northern part of the town.
The elliptic shape of the piazza corresponding, to a great extent, to the
area of the ancient arena.
Places of Interest Bagni
di Lucca North of Lucca, Bagni di Lucca (150m/495ft; pop. 9,000), comprises
a number of separate villages, known as early as the 10th century as the
"Baths of Corsena", with springs containing salt and sulfur (37-54 °C/99-129
°F: season May-September). The principal village is Villa, once a residence
of the dukes of Lucca, with its own thermal spring. The village of Bagni
Caldi is the most important spa, with a warm spring, the "Doccione" (54
°C/129 °F), in a cave.
Villas Landscape The
Surroundings of Lucca boast an unique "Villas Landscape". The Villas, or
rather the palaces in villa, are historical country residences that the
Lucchesi merchants built between the 15th and 19th centuries, investing
the fruits of their business and banking activities in central Europe.
More than three hundred Villas, large and small, are spread out over the
arc of hills that both defines and brings to a close the geographical bounds
of the Plain of Lucca. Among them: Villa Reale di Marlia, Villa Grabau,
Villa Bernardini, Villa Oliva, Villa Mansi,Villa di Carmigliano.
Events Monthly Markets/fairs
Lucca has a large antiques market (centred around Piazza San Giusto and
Piazza Antelminelli) on the third Sunday (and preceding Saturday) of every
month. There is also a craft fair, again in and around Piazza San Giusto,
on the last Sunday (and preceding Saturday) of every month.
Mostre Delle Antiche Camelie
Della Lucchesia - March Held over three weekends during March, this
well established show of Camelias is centred around the village and villas
of Pieve di Compito and San Andrea di Compito, a short distance from Lucca.
There is a main exhibition, special openings of villas and their gardens,
plants for sale, (usually) a tea exhibition and associated displays.
Sawdust Carpets - May
Perhaps losing
something in translation the "tappeti di segatura colorata" are an absolutely
wonderful sight. The long central street of Camaiore is bedecked with dozens
of incredibly detailed designs fabricated entirely from "sprinkled" coloured
sawdust. Work starts the evening before and continues all night long, with
the procession of Corpus Domini passing over (and destroying) them the
next day. The Sunday of Corpus Domini and the Saturday night beforehand.
Lucca Summer Festival
- July Series of open air concerts, Lucca hosts the Lucca Summer Festival
each year which, in July 2006, saw the likes of Eric Clapton, Roger Waters,
Tracy Chapman and Santana play live in the Piazza Napolean.
San Paolino - July 3rd
sunday of month, The festival of San Paolino sees mediaeval costumes,
torchlit parades and a traditional crossbow contest. Centred around the
San Paolino area in the centre of Lucca.
"Lucca September" As
Pisa is in June, so Lucca is in September - a place taken back in time
with the middle-ages returned and the atmosphere one of festivity. There
are special concerts, markets, shows, exhibitions and processions, with
the undoubted highlight being the Luminaria di Santa Croce on the night
of the 13th. The centre of Lucca is lit by torch and candlelight alone
and there is an enormous procession, largely in period costume, with music,
the famous flag-juggling, and the return of Lucchesi from the world over.
The procession starts at the church of San Frediano (at 8.00 PM) and proceeds
to the cathedral of San Martino to celebrate the Volto Santo.
Lucca Comics - October
Every year, last weekend in October sees Lucca host an incredibly popular
International Comics Fair. Artists, collectors and exhibitors from all
over the world. Comics, games, simulations and very full hotels.
Self-Catering
in Italy
About the Author
www.filcoo.com
Top of Page
|